Archive for April, 2013


Classics from Mortar Rock

April 21, 2013

And here are two more videos in the series DrPlim does Mortar Rock.

The first is The Odyssey which is rated somewhere between V11 and V7…  I never saw anyone top it out since the strong climbers who claimed it was easy always fell on the topout and the weak climbers who claimed it was hard never got past the first move.
The fall from the top can be nasty onto uneven ground+trees+iron bench so I’m happy I never fell from there!  2 days to do the first move though… kept trying the high foot beta and feeling close then did some low-foot-beta-pogo-ninjitsu and it was done.  Thanks Wade and Nuno for the 2-handed spotting and Ben for the casual one-handed cell-phone spot.There is a sit to this problem that adds 3 really cool moves which probably go at low 10 (?) by themselves, will try that today.

The second is an older video of the neighboring classic problem: Mission Impossible.  Such a nice line on some very sharp holds.  Get through the painful gritty holds to an easier topout.  There is a sit to this one which is, of course, Chinese Connection 12/13? and there is a left exit which is probably a 10 and adds a scary airy topout on holds that I have yet to identify… maybe try that today?
Thanks Christian, Wade and Sander for the spotting!

Here is the previous video in the Mortar Rock Series: Full Fever

Big Thank You to EVOLV for the Shaman’s!  Let’s see how far we can take this series!