Posts Tagged ‘climbing’


It’s Been A While… Cindy

April 19, 2015

Uff, it’s been quite a while (just had to add that so I wouldn’t be quoting that lame song) but it’s feeling good to return to posting here.

Been on a media hiatus, an overall media hiatus, a screw-you-fb hiatus (for no real reason other than what a lame waste of time).  I haven’t posted much over on my vimeo account either (other than some anatomy visualizations).  When did this all start?  Well, if I go to the trouble of actually figuring that out I think it is pretty clear that it all dropped off after breaking the fucking start hold on one of the most beautiful climbs I have ever climbed on…

Here is some video of that happening, including the intense brushing prior to the day’s attempts.

Anyhoo, that happened, and I vowed to never return to that problem…. actually we returned the next weekend but THEN I vowed no more.

Then the weather got hot, the season was proclaimed over, I didn’t go outside much, structured training is bs.

And then two weeks ago I got suckered back into Yosemite under the condition that I was not going to be trying the same old stuff and sure enough, got shown an awesome beautiful problem called Cindy (V10 ish) that felt amazing and if the upper slopers were cold enough I would have… who knows.

Here is a clip of some of the days’ attempts:

And, finally, to get up to date, I received some Luchadores in the mail, the newest shoe from Evolv.  Took them out to my local crag Mortar where I have been going every week and lapping climbs with beautiful moves.  Here I climb one of my fav climbs: Jungle Fever, small crimps, technical, not my best style, feels great to have it on lock-down.

Loving the Luchadores thus far.  SUUUPER comfortable.  The Nexxos are my favorite shoe by far, counting any other shoe I have tried from other brands.  Let’s see how these Luchadores compare.


Some Favorite Photos

November 10, 2014

Just wanting to share some photos from the recent past

IMG_5970 IMG_5983 IMG_5985 IMG_5996 IMG_5999 IMG_6008 IMG_6011 IMG_6014 IMG_6182 IMG_6255 IMG_6256 IMG_6304 IMG_6365 IMG_6381 IMG_6382


Quick Tahoe/Yosemite Update

November 3, 2014

Three weeks ago we went to Tahoe and we visited one of the top spots there called the Saddle boulders.  The drive up was heinous but the boulders were worth it.  Tahoe grades have always felt a bit on the easy side and this day was no exception.  An awesome V8, then a V9 both second go and finally snuck in another V9 before the end of the day.  It is hard to say what makes a good climb; the first two lines are tall and obvious and great easy movement whereas the last one Nietzche’s Girls was close to the ground yet made up of 4 moves each of which required a lot of focus and core… and I had to really try hard for it.  I guess in this case the assdragger rates higher in my book.

Here are some pictures taken by Vanessa Avery.




Two weeks ago I made it out to Yosemite for the first Valley trip of the season.  We left at 7 when it was pouring rain and after 45 minutes of driving we broke through the storm onto the other side and kept driving away from the storm front.  Reached the valley before 11am and had until 3:30 before the storm caught up.
Managed to climb a really great highball called Orion, here is the video magnificently edited by Wade:


Yosemite – Valley Season Begins

October 29, 2013

Wow.  Went to The Valley the past two weekends and got on amazing climbs…  but better than that was the experience of being back in Yosemite, amidst all the Fall colors, in the company of good friends who know how to have fun, respect nature and try hard.

Here is a video I made of Ryan Moon climbing Panic Room (V9) one of the many gems in Yosemite:

Many more Valley days to come!


Classics from Mortar Rock

April 21, 2013

And here are two more videos in the series DrPlim does Mortar Rock.

The first is The Odyssey which is rated somewhere between V11 and V7…  I never saw anyone top it out since the strong climbers who claimed it was easy always fell on the topout and the weak climbers who claimed it was hard never got past the first move.
The fall from the top can be nasty onto uneven ground+trees+iron bench so I’m happy I never fell from there!  2 days to do the first move though… kept trying the high foot beta and feeling close then did some low-foot-beta-pogo-ninjitsu and it was done.  Thanks Wade and Nuno for the 2-handed spotting and Ben for the casual one-handed cell-phone spot.There is a sit to this problem that adds 3 really cool moves which probably go at low 10 (?) by themselves, will try that today.

The second is an older video of the neighboring classic problem: Mission Impossible.  Such a nice line on some very sharp holds.  Get through the painful gritty holds to an easier topout.  There is a sit to this one which is, of course, Chinese Connection 12/13? and there is a left exit which is probably a 10 and adds a scary airy topout on holds that I have yet to identify… maybe try that today?
Thanks Christian, Wade and Sander for the spotting!

Here is the previous video in the Mortar Rock Series: Full Fever

Big Thank You to EVOLV for the Shaman’s!  Let’s see how far we can take this series!


Lost Clips – Max Zolotukhin in Yosemite

March 7, 2013

I’ll be posting a series of unedited clips to simply put out footage that I have taken but not posted.

This is the first clip with footage of Max Zolotukhin climbing in Yosemite.  This footage was taken over 2 years and features the problems:

The Force
Midnight Lightning
Diesel Power
Drive On


Yosemite Bouldering – Video Installment I

February 16, 2011

So this past week I made my way back to Yosemite National Park.
It just always feels so good to say that!

El Cap – Photo by Natasha Barnes

It is snowing in Yosemite right now, but last weekend the conditions were perfect!  Snow on the ground but clean topouts, cold but sunny.
A lot of sending on this trip.

Atlantis V6 – photo by Natasha Barnes

Natasha, Cole and I arrived on Friday night and began touring the classics the next morning.  Saturday we played on excellent boulders such as Atlantis, Heart of Darkness, and Drive On.  Sunday we went to Blue Suede Shoes, Thriller, The Force and back to Drive On.


Drive On – Photo by Natasha Barnes

I divided my time between climbing and filming, not getting as much time on the rock as I would like but capturing some of the moments that make the trips memorable to me.  I have found myself fascinated about filming more and more, having different ideas for projects that I want to explore.

Myself on The Force – Photo by Natasha barnes

Stepping away from the camera I got “me-time” on The Force (upper-end V9).  My motivation on this trip was focused on trying Thriller (upper-end V10) but the pads were all (yes, quite a few) on The Force and, more importantly, something about it really called to me.  I didn’t send but I felt very comfortable right on the first try.  I can clearly see the results of all my training at GWPC and know that, with more trips outdoors to get my head screwed on right, I’ll be ready to enjoy what Yosemite has to offer.

The Force – Photo by Natasha Barnes

Congrats to Cole for sending two V6’s and doing well on a bunch of other climbs on his first real outdoors trip.

I got good footage of Ethan Pringle sending Heart of Darkness (V9/10), Eric Vergne sending The Force (V9), Ryan Moon sending Thriller (V10), and Natasha Barnes sending Drive On (V11).

Here is the first of those videos, Natasha on Drive On:

Enjoy and tune in for the next short clips.