Posts Tagged ‘drplim’


It’s Been A While… Cindy

April 19, 2015

Uff, it’s been quite a while (just had to add that so I wouldn’t be quoting that lame song) but it’s feeling good to return to posting here.

Been on a media hiatus, an overall media hiatus, a screw-you-fb hiatus (for no real reason other than what a lame waste of time).  I haven’t posted much over on my vimeo account either (other than some anatomy visualizations).  When did this all start?  Well, if I go to the trouble of actually figuring that out I think it is pretty clear that it all dropped off after breaking the fucking start hold on one of the most beautiful climbs I have ever climbed on…

Here is some video of that happening, including the intense brushing prior to the day’s attempts.

Anyhoo, that happened, and I vowed to never return to that problem…. actually we returned the next weekend but THEN I vowed no more.

Then the weather got hot, the season was proclaimed over, I didn’t go outside much, structured training is bs.

And then two weeks ago I got suckered back into Yosemite under the condition that I was not going to be trying the same old stuff and sure enough, got shown an awesome beautiful problem called Cindy (V10 ish) that felt amazing and if the upper slopers were cold enough I would have… who knows.

Here is a clip of some of the days’ attempts:

And, finally, to get up to date, I received some Luchadores in the mail, the newest shoe from Evolv.  Took them out to my local crag Mortar where I have been going every week and lapping climbs with beautiful moves.  Here I climb one of my fav climbs: Jungle Fever, small crimps, technical, not my best style, feels great to have it on lock-down.

Loving the Luchadores thus far.  SUUUPER comfortable.  The Nexxos are my favorite shoe by far, counting any other shoe I have tried from other brands.  Let’s see how these Luchadores compare.


Exploring the California Coast

September 8, 2014

Summer is coming to a close (hopefully), the weather is starting to cool down (not really), and so begins the transition from summer training to fall outdoor climbing!

Went up along the coast this past weekend to get on Rosstafarian, one of the best V6s anywhere, and to explore some of the hidden boulders in Sonoma.  Here is a short clip:


The Force – Yosemite

November 28, 2013

It is 10pm and in 2 hours it is Black Friday; in 9 hours it is off to Yosemite time for another day trip!!

Here is a clip from the last day visit a few weeks ago:

Thanks to Evolv and to the crew there that day!


Classics from Mortar Rock

April 21, 2013

And here are two more videos in the series DrPlim does Mortar Rock.

The first is The Odyssey which is rated somewhere between V11 and V7…  I never saw anyone top it out since the strong climbers who claimed it was easy always fell on the topout and the weak climbers who claimed it was hard never got past the first move.
The fall from the top can be nasty onto uneven ground+trees+iron bench so I’m happy I never fell from there!  2 days to do the first move though… kept trying the high foot beta and feeling close then did some low-foot-beta-pogo-ninjitsu and it was done.  Thanks Wade and Nuno for the 2-handed spotting and Ben for the casual one-handed cell-phone spot.There is a sit to this problem that adds 3 really cool moves which probably go at low 10 (?) by themselves, will try that today.

The second is an older video of the neighboring classic problem: Mission Impossible.  Such a nice line on some very sharp holds.  Get through the painful gritty holds to an easier topout.  There is a sit to this one which is, of course, Chinese Connection 12/13? and there is a left exit which is probably a 10 and adds a scary airy topout on holds that I have yet to identify… maybe try that today?
Thanks Christian, Wade and Sander for the spotting!

Here is the previous video in the Mortar Rock Series: Full Fever

Big Thank You to EVOLV for the Shaman’s!  Let’s see how far we can take this series!


Yosemite Bouldering – Video Installment I

February 16, 2011

So this past week I made my way back to Yosemite National Park.
It just always feels so good to say that!

El Cap – Photo by Natasha Barnes

It is snowing in Yosemite right now, but last weekend the conditions were perfect!  Snow on the ground but clean topouts, cold but sunny.
A lot of sending on this trip.

Atlantis V6 – photo by Natasha Barnes

Natasha, Cole and I arrived on Friday night and began touring the classics the next morning.  Saturday we played on excellent boulders such as Atlantis, Heart of Darkness, and Drive On.  Sunday we went to Blue Suede Shoes, Thriller, The Force and back to Drive On.


Drive On – Photo by Natasha Barnes

I divided my time between climbing and filming, not getting as much time on the rock as I would like but capturing some of the moments that make the trips memorable to me.  I have found myself fascinated about filming more and more, having different ideas for projects that I want to explore.

Myself on The Force – Photo by Natasha barnes

Stepping away from the camera I got “me-time” on The Force (upper-end V9).  My motivation on this trip was focused on trying Thriller (upper-end V10) but the pads were all (yes, quite a few) on The Force and, more importantly, something about it really called to me.  I didn’t send but I felt very comfortable right on the first try.  I can clearly see the results of all my training at GWPC and know that, with more trips outdoors to get my head screwed on right, I’ll be ready to enjoy what Yosemite has to offer.

The Force – Photo by Natasha Barnes

Congrats to Cole for sending two V6’s and doing well on a bunch of other climbs on his first real outdoors trip.

I got good footage of Ethan Pringle sending Heart of Darkness (V9/10), Eric Vergne sending The Force (V9), Ryan Moon sending Thriller (V10), and Natasha Barnes sending Drive On (V11).

Here is the first of those videos, Natasha on Drive On:

Enjoy and tune in for the next short clips.


Red Rocks

January 25, 2011

I took a quick 5-day bouldering trip to Red Rocks at the beginning of this year with Randy, Jeremy, Max and Natasha.  Red Rocks was the place to be since most of the winter bouldering areas got dumped with snow!

It was a short adventure filled with climbing, hot tubs, dubstep, strippers, whole foods, casinos, cold temperatures and clear skies, and lots of driving.  Put those in a blender and you get an epic trip.

Here is a short video I put together.  As video cameras and home-made climbing movies become more common it is more difficult to get others to shoot video when the cameraman is climbing – so I don’t show up even once in this movie!

Enjoy!  Red Rocks is definitely worth a longer visit!

For other recent movies about bouldering at Red Rocks you have Jon Glassberg’s:

and Matt Wilder’s:


Cleaning, Video, Video Review

August 17, 2010

Those are the things on the list, cleaning, video, and video review.

Start with the cleaning.
So it’s been hot in Sintra.  I was making very good progress on my project and then the hot weather rolled in.  The climb in question doesn’t require very cold temps but it is slopers, compression on small slopers, so if it is warm it is impossible.  As it stands I have a hard time believing it could be less than… I think it best to not talk about the grade until I send it.
So I’ve been cleaning.  I’ve been going to a cooler area of the mountain, an area which is shadier and breezier, and I’ve been walking around cleaning and trying a few hard projects.  A few days ago I cleaned three new lines!  Each required about 30 minutes of removing branches, topsoil, and vines.  And it’s impressive to think that the rock itself required very little brushing, it was all there.
So, for those who frequent Sintra, there are three new lines near the Sao Pedro sector.  These are: Rosebud Massage (about 7a), Na Greta (about 6a), and The Good Doctor (about 6a+).  I’ll be going back in a few hours to do the sit/traverse start to Rosebud Massage and also to see if someone repeats the lines so I can get their thoughts on the lines and the grades can be talked about.

Second: Video.
On July 26th I returned to Hoya Moros.  The place was way too good to not go back to, despite having to hike with a ton of stuff on our backs.  So we returned.  This time we made it a three day affair and we had a better feel of what climbs we wanted to try.
The trip was awesome!
The weather was a little hotter than on the previous trip and there was less water in the streams, those were the cons.  The pros were that we tried many more lines, some excellent lines.
Obviously I took the camera and tripod again but I have to say that I did not get much good footage.  There was only 1 battery and the way its time was used didn’t give much footage of sends…  I just wasn’t too happy with what footage I got.  So I wasn’t going to make another movie.

However.  After letting the footage sit for nearly a month I realized that I really can’t just let it disappear.  There was some fun moments captured and I at least wanted to share those.  So I put together was little there was and have just finished uploading it to Vimeo.  2 batteries would have been perfect.  To be able to capture different angles, to be able to have had the camera on when the sends happened, and to film the landscape.
But hey, I’m pretty happy with this second video too!

And finally, Video Review.

I went ahead and downloaded the “new” Chuck Fryberger movie: Core.  I have to say that I was one of those who immediately downloaded Chuck’s first video about Rocklands: Specimen and that I was very disappointed.  There is some pretty strong climbing going on but the editing didn’t work for me (especially the enhanced scraping sound of the shoes on the rock…).  That and the fact that he placed Fred Nicole‘s name on the roster like it was candy though there was very little Fred Nicole in the movie itself.  I stuck with it though and got his Pure video and now finally Core.
The short is that I really liked it and recommend it.
The Dosage movies started coming out and they were so much better than any other climbing movie that they became the standard.  This meant that the style which the Lowell team imparted upon their videos also became the standard for climbing videos, unnecessarily.  Other people started coming out with videos (such as Specimen) and I thought that even though the climbing was good the videos were miles from Dosage.
Well, I now think that Core is up there.  It is important in that it shows how climbing videos can have a different feel and still be really good climbing videos.  They can focus on other aspects and, if shot and edited well, still capture the attention of the viewer (I have to say though that some shots still feel off, like that super long slow motion shot of BJ Tilden shaking out… yawn).
I hope this acts to motivate other climbing filmmakers.