Posts Tagged ‘evolv’


It’s Been A While… Cindy

April 19, 2015

Uff, it’s been quite a while (just had to add that so I wouldn’t be quoting that lame song) but it’s feeling good to return to posting here.

Been on a media hiatus, an overall media hiatus, a screw-you-fb hiatus (for no real reason other than what a lame waste of time).  I haven’t posted much over on my vimeo account either (other than some anatomy visualizations).  When did this all start?  Well, if I go to the trouble of actually figuring that out I think it is pretty clear that it all dropped off after breaking the fucking start hold on one of the most beautiful climbs I have ever climbed on…

Here is some video of that happening, including the intense brushing prior to the day’s attempts.

Anyhoo, that happened, and I vowed to never return to that problem…. actually we returned the next weekend but THEN I vowed no more.

Then the weather got hot, the season was proclaimed over, I didn’t go outside much, structured training is bs.

And then two weeks ago I got suckered back into Yosemite under the condition that I was not going to be trying the same old stuff and sure enough, got shown an awesome beautiful problem called Cindy (V10 ish) that felt amazing and if the upper slopers were cold enough I would have… who knows.

Here is a clip of some of the days’ attempts:

And, finally, to get up to date, I received some Luchadores in the mail, the newest shoe from Evolv.  Took them out to my local crag Mortar where I have been going every week and lapping climbs with beautiful moves.  Here I climb one of my fav climbs: Jungle Fever, small crimps, technical, not my best style, feels great to have it on lock-down.

Loving the Luchadores thus far.  SUUUPER comfortable.  The Nexxos are my favorite shoe by far, counting any other shoe I have tried from other brands.  Let’s see how these Luchadores compare.


Some Favorite Photos

November 10, 2014

Just wanting to share some photos from the recent past

IMG_5970 IMG_5983 IMG_5985 IMG_5996 IMG_5999 IMG_6008 IMG_6011 IMG_6014 IMG_6182 IMG_6255 IMG_6256 IMG_6304 IMG_6365 IMG_6381 IMG_6382


Quick Tahoe/Yosemite Update

November 3, 2014

Three weeks ago we went to Tahoe and we visited one of the top spots there called the Saddle boulders.  The drive up was heinous but the boulders were worth it.  Tahoe grades have always felt a bit on the easy side and this day was no exception.  An awesome V8, then a V9 both second go and finally snuck in another V9 before the end of the day.  It is hard to say what makes a good climb; the first two lines are tall and obvious and great easy movement whereas the last one Nietzche’s Girls was close to the ground yet made up of 4 moves each of which required a lot of focus and core… and I had to really try hard for it.  I guess in this case the assdragger rates higher in my book.

Here are some pictures taken by Vanessa Avery.




Two weeks ago I made it out to Yosemite for the first Valley trip of the season.  We left at 7 when it was pouring rain and after 45 minutes of driving we broke through the storm onto the other side and kept driving away from the storm front.  Reached the valley before 11am and had until 3:30 before the storm caught up.
Managed to climb a really great highball called Orion, here is the video magnificently edited by Wade:


Exploring the California Coast

September 8, 2014

Summer is coming to a close (hopefully), the weather is starting to cool down (not really), and so begins the transition from summer training to fall outdoor climbing!

Went up along the coast this past weekend to get on Rosstafarian, one of the best V6s anywhere, and to explore some of the hidden boulders in Sonoma.  Here is a short clip:


The Force – Yosemite

November 28, 2013

It is 10pm and in 2 hours it is Black Friday; in 9 hours it is off to Yosemite time for another day trip!!

Here is a clip from the last day visit a few weeks ago:

Thanks to Evolv and to the crew there that day!


Name That Climb and Climber – Solution to #8

October 1, 2013

Well, again nobody managed to the get previous NTCC… sigh, sometimes it seems like they are too easy and then the easy ones seem like they are too difficult.  The climb is Angama V15 (8C) though Fata Morgana would have been fine and the climber is the relatively unknown American Paul Robinson.


It is too early in the morning to be posting a new NTCC; breakfast first.



Name That Climb and Climber – Solution to #7 and New #8

September 24, 2013

Ok ok, nobody figured out #7.  Seems like it either takes 4-10 minutes or nobody knows it.

Well, here is the solution: Here he is on a different climb in the same area:

Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.30.42 AM

Yup, Jason Kehl.

Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.30.18 AM

And here he is on Down To The Wire:Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.28.58 AM

And here is NTCC #8:

Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.40.48 AMYa, I know it is an easy peasy one… but hey, I thought you might need something to boost your egos.