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Some downtime and Sintra Topo

November 24, 2015

Today is November 23rd and I “stopped” climbing around beginning of June so that’s… 6 months!  When I say stopped I mean that I climbed (let me see) on around 10-15 days in those 6 months.  Sporadic days.  Loooong stretches in between.

I felt a deep lull in motivation in June and about that time I started playing a ridiculously fun and immersive computer game (yes… yes…) called World of Tanks.

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World of Tanks – T37

God that must sound lame but I have been really obsessed with this strategic multiplayer realtime game.  Amazing graphics, amazing strategy, steep learning curve.

In addition to the game I was playing more music on my concertina and both of those I could do at home which just took away from my desire to go to the climbing gym and do the saaame routes over again…

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Minutes before the break

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A few days before the break

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Post-break… so ugly

Man I’m so bummed about Drive On.

So on the 1st of July I left for a 3 month visit to Europe.  2 months in Portugal and 1 month touring around England, France and Spain.

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Water, Sun, Climbing – Portugal

Portugal is so amazing, and so are the people living there.  I miss being able to call up a friend and drive to a cliffside crag, jump in the water in between burns and just be in nature.

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Mateus and cousin Gabriel

Had an awesome time catching up with some good friends and seeing what was new in the bouldering world.

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Enjoying the beaches of Portugal

After close to 3 months with only 3 days of climbing I got to Fontainbleau and oh my it is such an amazing place!  Fully lived up to all the expectations.  I felt so happy there.

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Fontainbleau playground

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Fontainbleau playground

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The Little Prince in the village of Fontainbleau

So now I’m back in Oakland and, after a month and a half, still haven’t restarted my climbing gym membership.  I tell myself I’ll do it beginning of December so that I can still enjoy the winter season in Yosemite but we’ll see…   I hear the new youngsters in the climbing gym have gotten super strong so maybe I’ll go get some inspiration by climbing with them:)

Until next time!

OH!  And that rambling and I forgot to mention the main reason I was posting!!  SINTRA has a new bouldering Topo by the ever-present one-and-only Macau.

Check it out at: https://bouldersintra.wordpress.com/topo/

 

 

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It’s Been A While… Cindy

April 19, 2015

Uff, it’s been quite a while (just had to add that so I wouldn’t be quoting that lame song) but it’s feeling good to return to posting here.

Been on a media hiatus, an overall media hiatus, a screw-you-fb hiatus (for no real reason other than what a lame waste of time).  I haven’t posted much over on my vimeo account either (other than some anatomy visualizations).  When did this all start?  Well, if I go to the trouble of actually figuring that out I think it is pretty clear that it all dropped off after breaking the fucking start hold on one of the most beautiful climbs I have ever climbed on…

Here is some video of that happening, including the intense brushing prior to the day’s attempts.

Anyhoo, that happened, and I vowed to never return to that problem…. actually we returned the next weekend but THEN I vowed no more.

Then the weather got hot, the season was proclaimed over, I didn’t go outside much, structured training is bs.

And then two weeks ago I got suckered back into Yosemite under the condition that I was not going to be trying the same old stuff and sure enough, got shown an awesome beautiful problem called Cindy (V10 ish) that felt amazing and if the upper slopers were cold enough I would have… who knows.

Here is a clip of some of the days’ attempts:

And, finally, to get up to date, I received some Luchadores in the mail, the newest shoe from Evolv.  Took them out to my local crag Mortar where I have been going every week and lapping climbs with beautiful moves.  Here I climb one of my fav climbs: Jungle Fever, small crimps, technical, not my best style, feels great to have it on lock-down.

Loving the Luchadores thus far.  SUUUPER comfortable.  The Nexxos are my favorite shoe by far, counting any other shoe I have tried from other brands.  Let’s see how these Luchadores compare.

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Some Favorite Photos

November 10, 2014

Just wanting to share some photos from the recent past

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Quick Tahoe/Yosemite Update

November 3, 2014

Three weeks ago we went to Tahoe and we visited one of the top spots there called the Saddle boulders.  The drive up was heinous but the boulders were worth it.  Tahoe grades have always felt a bit on the easy side and this day was no exception.  An awesome V8, then a V9 both second go and finally snuck in another V9 before the end of the day.  It is hard to say what makes a good climb; the first two lines are tall and obvious and great easy movement whereas the last one Nietzche’s Girls was close to the ground yet made up of 4 moves each of which required a lot of focus and core… and I had to really try hard for it.  I guess in this case the assdragger rates higher in my book.

Here are some pictures taken by Vanessa Avery.

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Two weeks ago I made it out to Yosemite for the first Valley trip of the season.  We left at 7 when it was pouring rain and after 45 minutes of driving we broke through the storm onto the other side and kept driving away from the storm front.  Reached the valley before 11am and had until 3:30 before the storm caught up.
Managed to climb a really great highball called Orion, here is the video magnificently edited by Wade:

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I’m Falling To You

October 6, 2014

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Exploring the California Coast

September 8, 2014

Summer is coming to a close (hopefully), the weather is starting to cool down (not really), and so begins the transition from summer training to fall outdoor climbing!

Went up along the coast this past weekend to get on Rosstafarian, one of the best V6s anywhere, and to explore some of the hidden boulders in Sonoma.  Here is a short clip:

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Wade on Thriller

February 21, 2014

Wade getting so close!  Left hand blew off and he landed off the pads.

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