Archive for the ‘movies’ Category


It’s Been A While… Cindy

April 19, 2015

Uff, it’s been quite a while (just had to add that so I wouldn’t be quoting that lame song) but it’s feeling good to return to posting here.

Been on a media hiatus, an overall media hiatus, a screw-you-fb hiatus (for no real reason other than what a lame waste of time).  I haven’t posted much over on my vimeo account either (other than some anatomy visualizations).  When did this all start?  Well, if I go to the trouble of actually figuring that out I think it is pretty clear that it all dropped off after breaking the fucking start hold on one of the most beautiful climbs I have ever climbed on…

Here is some video of that happening, including the intense brushing prior to the day’s attempts.

Anyhoo, that happened, and I vowed to never return to that problem…. actually we returned the next weekend but THEN I vowed no more.

Then the weather got hot, the season was proclaimed over, I didn’t go outside much, structured training is bs.

And then two weeks ago I got suckered back into Yosemite under the condition that I was not going to be trying the same old stuff and sure enough, got shown an awesome beautiful problem called Cindy (V10 ish) that felt amazing and if the upper slopers were cold enough I would have… who knows.

Here is a clip of some of the days’ attempts:

And, finally, to get up to date, I received some Luchadores in the mail, the newest shoe from Evolv.  Took them out to my local crag Mortar where I have been going every week and lapping climbs with beautiful moves.  Here I climb one of my fav climbs: Jungle Fever, small crimps, technical, not my best style, feels great to have it on lock-down.

Loving the Luchadores thus far.  SUUUPER comfortable.  The Nexxos are my favorite shoe by far, counting any other shoe I have tried from other brands.  Let’s see how these Luchadores compare.


Name That Climb and Climber #1

September 13, 2013

Screen Shot 2013-09-13 at 11.33.37 AM

For the few visitors to this blog I thought I’d start a little game with a Evolv prize-potential further along!  Very simple game, just identify the climb and the climber shown in the picture.  You have to get both right.


I will only be posting images from pretty well-known movies (or clipped photos sometimes); I will not post some photo of an obscure climb in like Portugal or something… or maybe I will 🙂


Iker Arroitajauregi

September 9, 2013

Every few weeks another random person shows up in the climbing radar with a list of impressive sends.  Jan Hojer was like that and now this guy Iker Arroitajauregi posts a video of super impressive sends in Hoya Moros.


Classics from Mortar Rock

April 21, 2013

And here are two more videos in the series DrPlim does Mortar Rock.

The first is The Odyssey which is rated somewhere between V11 and V7…  I never saw anyone top it out since the strong climbers who claimed it was easy always fell on the topout and the weak climbers who claimed it was hard never got past the first move.
The fall from the top can be nasty onto uneven ground+trees+iron bench so I’m happy I never fell from there!  2 days to do the first move though… kept trying the high foot beta and feeling close then did some low-foot-beta-pogo-ninjitsu and it was done.  Thanks Wade and Nuno for the 2-handed spotting and Ben for the casual one-handed cell-phone spot.There is a sit to this problem that adds 3 really cool moves which probably go at low 10 (?) by themselves, will try that today.

The second is an older video of the neighboring classic problem: Mission Impossible.  Such a nice line on some very sharp holds.  Get through the painful gritty holds to an easier topout.  There is a sit to this one which is, of course, Chinese Connection 12/13? and there is a left exit which is probably a 10 and adds a scary airy topout on holds that I have yet to identify… maybe try that today?
Thanks Christian, Wade and Sander for the spotting!

Here is the previous video in the Mortar Rock Series: Full Fever

Big Thank You to EVOLV for the Shaman’s!  Let’s see how far we can take this series!