Archive for September, 2013


Tahoe – Day 1of many

September 24, 2013

On Sunday I went up to Tahoe with Wade for my very first visit… crazy that I have been living in the Bay Area for 3 years now and never been up to Tahoe (I’ve been kinda busy AND I don’t have a car AND I was just getting to know the climbing community BUT still… crazy).

Wade and I had high expectations as we drove up; conditions were supposed to be sunny and cold and we had several V8’s, V9’s and V10’s to look at and attempt.  In the end we didn’t get on any of the ones we had thought we were going to.  As we neared Tahoe we started to notice a little bit of snow on top of the trees and as we arrived at our parking area there was a solid foot of snow EVERYWHERE.  The boulders would have their tops covered in snow and would be wet even if we cleared them.  In desperation we searched the guidebook for lower elevation bouldering areas and found one small area with some V4’s, a V5 and a V10; we quickly drove there and had the area to ourselves until Kyle O’Meara and his partner (didn’t get your name) showed up.  Wade and I worked Rogue Wave, a technical kinda high V5 which I finally managed to top out after many frustrating attempts trying to find the holds.  Then Kyle made short work of the V10 – It’s A Boy, and we decided that the day was warming up so much that it was time to head back up to higher elevations and hope that some things had dried.

Wade had tried a crimpy V8 called Fresh Tips at the Soda Springs area and though our tips were not fresh he went there anyway and ran into a group of Bay Area climbers including motivated climbers Vitaly Volberg and his partner Vanessa.

Fresh Tips is a great little aesthetic climb on small holds and requiring some good body tension (particularly to not dab on the rock behind).  Wade refreshed his memory from his last visit and sent after dry-firing of the holds once or twice.  I messed up on the start moves twice and then took it to the top on the third try; felt great to climb this classic though sad the challenge was over so quickly.  Afterwards we were coerced by Vitaly to go to “THE BEST CLIMB IN TAHOE”: Soul Glo.

After a gorgeous hike we arrived at Soul Glo, I switched into cameraman mode and captured Vitaly comfortably sending this gem.

So much to climb up in Tahoe!!  Though Wade is psyched for projects in Yosemite… I have got to come back!



Name That Climb and Climber – Solution to #7 and New #8

September 24, 2013

Ok ok, nobody figured out #7.  Seems like it either takes 4-10 minutes or nobody knows it.

Well, here is the solution: Here he is on a different climb in the same area:

Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.30.42 AM

Yup, Jason Kehl.

Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.30.18 AM

And here he is on Down To The Wire:Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.28.58 AM

And here is NTCC #8:

Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.40.48 AMYa, I know it is an easy peasy one… but hey, I thought you might need something to boost your egos.



Name That Climb and Climber – Solution to #6 and Now for #7

September 21, 2013


I’m still super impressed by how quickly Jeremy got that last NTCC… wow.  It was a tight battle between Portugal and California with Bibs saying that he knew the climber but not the climb… did he?  We will never know but you can be sure he is readying himself for the next NTCC.
Randy Puro on the super gorgeous line Dogwood V12 in Yosemite Valley.  I don’t know if I’ll grab that hold but I will touch it this upcoming fall season!

Screen Shot 2013-09-21 at 10.56.23 AM

Let’s move onto the next image!  NTCC #7!!Screen Shot 2013-09-21 at 10.54.41 AM

Enjoy the rain Californians!  Tomorrow I hope to be up in Tahoe for my first visit!  Supposed to be 55F and sunny 🙂



Name That Climb and Climber – Solution of #5 and Now for #6

September 20, 2013

Another NTCC that went down super fast.  Max Z. was on the right track with his guess of Hampi but got the climber and  problem incorrect leaving the field open to the fanaticism of Portuguese climbers.  Nate Gold on Lambaba, congrats Bibs.Screen Shot 2013-09-20 at 8.39.25 AM

And onto the next one.  Impressive how good climbers are at memorizing these images; I think that memorization works so much better when you are trying super hard physically, when you are physically and mentally committed as is the case in climbing.

Having said that, I hope you enjoy this next one!  I consider this one of the best lines I know.

Screen Shot 2013-09-20 at 8.40.49 AM

9am in California, 5pm in Portugal; let’s see who nabs this one!



Name That Climb and Climber – Solution to #4 and Now #5

September 19, 2013

Screen Shot 2013-09-18 at 8.51.12 PMNTCC#4, Daniel Woods on Big Dragon in la Foret de Font

This one went down super fast; I’m not surprised, I mean, the wavy, ripply stone and the TD + n.4 … still, good job on quickly taking down the climb and climber.  I’m going to be a bit more careful to post these when it is daytime in Portugal or else it is just not fair.

Well, the King is dead long live the King and onto the next NTCC.

Screen Shot 2013-09-18 at 9.01.00 PMIt is 7:30pm in Portugal, I’ll consider that a good time, and it is 11:30am in California; hard to be fairer than this.

In terms of difficulty… well, its hard for me to tell but what do you guys think?  Another super easy one?  Hard?

EvolvHave Fun!


Name That Climb and Climber #4

September 18, 2013

Screen Shot 2013-09-18 at 8.01.57 PMNumber 3 went down fast, of course the answer was Bernd Zangerl in his famous Memento 8B/C+

And I’m like… well, I can keep giving people these easier ones… it always feels good to get something right… or put up one that is more of a challenge………  it is not an easy choice.

Here it is: NTCC #4

Screen Shot 2013-09-18 at 8.06.33 PM

Duhhh, everyone knows where this is.
Have Fun!



Name That Climb and Climber – Solution to #2 and now #3

September 17, 2013

Screen Shot 2013-09-17 at 9.45.42 PMWell, I was a little surprised no-one got this second image… but I’m probably overestimating the number of people that actually saw the post 🙂  Oh well, I’m not going to tell you the answer but the picture above should make it clear.

UPS Tracking Service tells me that my Evolv package is arriving tomorrow but hey, the prize may end up staying at my house for a while if this game proves to hard.

And onwards we go to Name That Climb and Climber (NTCC) #3!

Screen Shot 2013-09-17 at 9.57.28 PMFew climbs have been downgraded as much as this… and that’s all I’ll say to help out.

EvolvJust a few more days until Fall starts bringing another season of bouldering.