Archive for October, 2013


Yosemite – Valley Season Begins

October 29, 2013

Wow.  Went to The Valley the past two weekends and got on amazing climbs…  but better than that was the experience of being back in Yosemite, amidst all the Fall colors, in the company of good friends who know how to have fun, respect nature and try hard.

Here is a video I made of Ryan Moon climbing Panic Room (V9) one of the many gems in Yosemite:

Many more Valley days to come!


Name That Climb and Climber – Solution to #8

October 1, 2013

Well, again nobody managed to the get previous NTCC… sigh, sometimes it seems like they are too easy and then the easy ones seem like they are too difficult.  The climb is Angama V15 (8C) though Fata Morgana would have been fine and the climber is the relatively unknown American Paul Robinson.


It is too early in the morning to be posting a new NTCC; breakfast first.



Tahoe – Day 2

October 1, 2013

This past Friday Wade texts me asking if I want to go back out to Tahoe and, thanks to my wife’s amazingness, I could!  A good crew of strong climbers and good friends were going and the plan was to get on some 5 star lines starting with the famous White Lines!!  I couldn’t say no!!

Wade, Christian, Jordan, Eric and I plus four pads all fit in one car! and we met up with Max, Clara, Vitaly and Vanessa.  In the end it was the single day with the most climbing I’ve ever done.  Once one climb was over with we’d hike over to the next, put our stuff down, attack and then move on to the next awesome line.  SO MUCH FUN, amazing scenery, awesome company!  A perfect day (I could have done without the In And Out burger though).

I somehow managed to send every climb we got on.  I’d be more tired and my fingers a little more punished when we’d get to a new boulder but the lines were so great that I really didn’t want to leave without having done them.

The highlights were:
Rainbird V8
White Lines V8
Down Syndrome V8
Hotos and Hand Tools V8
Fun House V6/7
Crescendo V7

I haven’t been climbing outside regularly and thus cannot honestly give my opinion about the grades having little reference.  All climbs (with the exception of Rainbird) were EXCELLENT in their own way!  White Lines is simply a 5 star boulder problem, starting with hard body tension moves on flat crimps then leading to slopey chalk-less holds involving a lot of compression.  Down Syndrome is just 2 hard moves from an undercling followed by a hard lunge to a jug.  Hotos is cave-like bodytension.  Fun House … amazing – tracking on crimp rails then hucking to slopers… perfect!