Wade on Thriller

February 21, 2014

Wade getting so close!  Left hand blew off and he landed off the pads.


The Force – Yosemite

November 28, 2013

It is 10pm and in 2 hours it is Black Friday; in 9 hours it is off to Yosemite time for another day trip!!

Here is a clip from the last day visit a few weeks ago:

Thanks to Evolv and to the crew there that day!


Yosemite – Valley Season Begins

October 29, 2013

Wow.  Went to The Valley the past two weekends and got on amazing climbs…  but better than that was the experience of being back in Yosemite, amidst all the Fall colors, in the company of good friends who know how to have fun, respect nature and try hard.

Here is a video I made of Ryan Moon climbing Panic Room (V9) one of the many gems in Yosemite:

Many more Valley days to come!


Name That Climb and Climber – Solution to #8

October 1, 2013

Well, again nobody managed to the get previous NTCC… sigh, sometimes it seems like they are too easy and then the easy ones seem like they are too difficult.  The climb is Angama V15 (8C) though Fata Morgana would have been fine and the climber is the relatively unknown American Paul Robinson.


It is too early in the morning to be posting a new NTCC; breakfast first.



Tahoe – Day 2

October 1, 2013

This past Friday Wade texts me asking if I want to go back out to Tahoe and, thanks to my wife’s amazingness, I could!  A good crew of strong climbers and good friends were going and the plan was to get on some 5 star lines starting with the famous White Lines!!  I couldn’t say no!!

Wade, Christian, Jordan, Eric and I plus four pads all fit in one car! and we met up with Max, Clara, Vitaly and Vanessa.  In the end it was the single day with the most climbing I’ve ever done.  Once one climb was over with we’d hike over to the next, put our stuff down, attack and then move on to the next awesome line.  SO MUCH FUN, amazing scenery, awesome company!  A perfect day (I could have done without the In And Out burger though).

I somehow managed to send every climb we got on.  I’d be more tired and my fingers a little more punished when we’d get to a new boulder but the lines were so great that I really didn’t want to leave without having done them.

The highlights were:
Rainbird V8
White Lines V8
Down Syndrome V8
Hotos and Hand Tools V8
Fun House V6/7
Crescendo V7

I haven’t been climbing outside regularly and thus cannot honestly give my opinion about the grades having little reference.  All climbs (with the exception of Rainbird) were EXCELLENT in their own way!  White Lines is simply a 5 star boulder problem, starting with hard body tension moves on flat crimps then leading to slopey chalk-less holds involving a lot of compression.  Down Syndrome is just 2 hard moves from an undercling followed by a hard lunge to a jug.  Hotos is cave-like bodytension.  Fun House … amazing – tracking on crimp rails then hucking to slopers… perfect!



Tahoe – Day 1of many

September 24, 2013

On Sunday I went up to Tahoe with Wade for my very first visit… crazy that I have been living in the Bay Area for 3 years now and never been up to Tahoe (I’ve been kinda busy AND I don’t have a car AND I was just getting to know the climbing community BUT still… crazy).

Wade and I had high expectations as we drove up; conditions were supposed to be sunny and cold and we had several V8’s, V9’s and V10’s to look at and attempt.  In the end we didn’t get on any of the ones we had thought we were going to.  As we neared Tahoe we started to notice a little bit of snow on top of the trees and as we arrived at our parking area there was a solid foot of snow EVERYWHERE.  The boulders would have their tops covered in snow and would be wet even if we cleared them.  In desperation we searched the guidebook for lower elevation bouldering areas and found one small area with some V4’s, a V5 and a V10; we quickly drove there and had the area to ourselves until Kyle O’Meara and his partner (didn’t get your name) showed up.  Wade and I worked Rogue Wave, a technical kinda high V5 which I finally managed to top out after many frustrating attempts trying to find the holds.  Then Kyle made short work of the V10 – It’s A Boy, and we decided that the day was warming up so much that it was time to head back up to higher elevations and hope that some things had dried.

Wade had tried a crimpy V8 called Fresh Tips at the Soda Springs area and though our tips were not fresh he went there anyway and ran into a group of Bay Area climbers including motivated climbers Vitaly Volberg and his partner Vanessa.

Fresh Tips is a great little aesthetic climb on small holds and requiring some good body tension (particularly to not dab on the rock behind).  Wade refreshed his memory from his last visit and sent after dry-firing of the holds once or twice.  I messed up on the start moves twice and then took it to the top on the third try; felt great to climb this classic though sad the challenge was over so quickly.  Afterwards we were coerced by Vitaly to go to “THE BEST CLIMB IN TAHOE”: Soul Glo.

After a gorgeous hike we arrived at Soul Glo, I switched into cameraman mode and captured Vitaly comfortably sending this gem.

So much to climb up in Tahoe!!  Though Wade is psyched for projects in Yosemite… I have got to come back!



Name That Climb and Climber – Solution to #7 and New #8

September 24, 2013

Ok ok, nobody figured out #7.  Seems like it either takes 4-10 minutes or nobody knows it.

Well, here is the solution: Here he is on a different climb in the same area:

Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.30.42 AM

Yup, Jason Kehl.

Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.30.18 AM

And here he is on Down To The Wire:Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.28.58 AM

And here is NTCC #8:

Screen Shot 2013-09-24 at 9.40.48 AMYa, I know it is an easy peasy one… but hey, I thought you might need something to boost your egos.