Archive for the ‘Sintra’ Category

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Some downtime and Sintra Topo

November 24, 2015

Today is November 23rd and I “stopped” climbing around beginning of June so that’s… 6 months!  When I say stopped I mean that I climbed (let me see) on around 10-15 days in those 6 months.  Sporadic days.  Loooong stretches in between.

I felt a deep lull in motivation in June and about that time I started playing a ridiculously fun and immersive computer game (yes… yes…) called World of Tanks.

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World of Tanks – T37

God that must sound lame but I have been really obsessed with this strategic multiplayer realtime game.  Amazing graphics, amazing strategy, steep learning curve.

In addition to the game I was playing more music on my concertina and both of those I could do at home which just took away from my desire to go to the climbing gym and do the saaame routes over again…

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Minutes before the break

Bruno Evolv 2014_2015

A few days before the break

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Post-break… so ugly

Man I’m so bummed about Drive On.

So on the 1st of July I left for a 3 month visit to Europe.  2 months in Portugal and 1 month touring around England, France and Spain.

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Water, Sun, Climbing – Portugal

Portugal is so amazing, and so are the people living there.  I miss being able to call up a friend and drive to a cliffside crag, jump in the water in between burns and just be in nature.

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Mateus and cousin Gabriel

Had an awesome time catching up with some good friends and seeing what was new in the bouldering world.

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Enjoying the beaches of Portugal

After close to 3 months with only 3 days of climbing I got to Fontainbleau and oh my it is such an amazing place!  Fully lived up to all the expectations.  I felt so happy there.

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Fontainbleau playground

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Fontainbleau playground

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The Little Prince in the village of Fontainbleau

So now I’m back in Oakland and, after a month and a half, still haven’t restarted my climbing gym membership.  I tell myself I’ll do it beginning of December so that I can still enjoy the winter season in Yosemite but we’ll see…   I hear the new youngsters in the climbing gym have gotten super strong so maybe I’ll go get some inspiration by climbing with them 🙂

Until next time!

OH!  And that rambling and I forgot to mention the main reason I was posting!!  SINTRA has a new bouldering Topo by the ever-present one-and-only Macau.

Check it out at: https://bouldersintra.wordpress.com/topo/

 

 

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Climbing Article Published!!!

September 13, 2013

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Yeah!

I wanted to mention here that Pareti, the Italian climbing magazine, has published a climbing article that I wrote together with my wife and with excellent pictures by Ricardo Alves!

SICK!!!!!

The article is about bouldering in Sintra and the magazine can be purchased online through THIS LINK; (I’m going to try and scan a few pages and post them up here, I don’t think Pareti would mind).

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All Day I Dream About Sex

February 28, 2013

Been a long time since I posted here…

Here is a small and fun clip of a good session of climbing in Portugal.  The clip highlights the send of a hard classic line called A.D.I.D.A.S. which stands for what I wrote on the title.

Enjoy!

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VENGA! – Fanatismo Espanhol en Sintra!

March 31, 2010

These past few days have been FANATIC!

Pena on another failed attempt at Voando Sobre Um Ninho de Cucus

Toni Lamprecht has come to test the Sintra granite but in addition to that beast over 20 Spaniards have invaded us too!!  Amongst those there are some very strong, >8a climbers.  To mention a few: Nano and Israel Olcina (one of the strong Olcina brothers).

The small crew of Sintra boulderers have been really excited to show these fellow climbers some of the classic lines, see if they could send some of our projects, and see if they would open up some new lines.

After approximately one week the toll is Sintra 1 – Spaniards 0.

Not really.  What we have found is that the hard boulders in Sintra are hard (we half-expected strong foreign climbers to crush and downgrade), the projects are solid (none gone and few even attempted cause they are imposing lines), Portuguese climbers have balls (the heady highball lines are not appealing to the foreigners, thus far).

Today we had a good session at the Meca and Mito areas.  With the headlines being Pena bagging the FA of a very pretty line: Loira Insubmissa (approximately 7b… technical).

Pena on Loira Insubmissa (FA)

For myself I’ve had two very good days, coming very close to repeating some of the hard lines I’ve done in the past months and then today I was exchanging attempts with Israel on the 7c version of Mito and did all the hard moves only to fall on the very last cross, a mistake that doesn’t bother me too much since I got further than he did and I had thought it would be a longer-term project!Israel on O Mito

More fanatic days to come… tomorrow actually!!!  A Muerte!!

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Ciao Sintra!

March 22, 2010

Yesterday we had an Italian treat with the visit of Roberto Armando and his wife from Italy!

Roberto is in charge of perhaps the most visited Italian bouldering site: InfoBoulder, a very nice and complete site with links to topos, training, news, videos and photos…  Check out their site.

The weather wasn’t fully cooperating in that the humidity was high and it was a bit warm.  With such weather we went to the Malveira sector Vivendas.  One of the sectors I’m least familiar with and whose best known climb is Visão Distorcida.

Visão Distorcida (“Distorted Vision”) started off as a 7b+ (V8) in 2002 and is now considered (by most) a soft 7b (V7).  The climb makes its way out of a horizontal roof, with only one small hold in the middle of the roof itself and a nice sloping pinch on the roof’s edge.  The crux is setting up on those two holds and lunging for the nice pocket on the lip.  Roof climbing is definitely not my style so I was very apprehensive about trying it but since it was The classic line (and we weren’t trying anything else there) I slowly worked the moves until I found foot placement that worked for me and I managed to do the climb.  Turns out it climbs really well!  A reminder for me to try new things.

Teresa Sousa and Gonçalo arrived just before I sent so here are two nice pictures taken by Teresa of me on the send:

Photos by Teresa Sousa

After that the group split up into two.  Pena and I went to brush, clean, and try a project of his while the others showed the Italian friends some more of the established climbs in a nearby sector.  Pena and I were shortly-thereafter joined by Macau and his tendinites and by Flash.

I tried the line a few times but my left hand was sore for some reason and I didn’t want to push it on my returning to bouldering, trying to avoid injuries.  So I took some pictures of Pena and Macau both giving it really good goes and making progress.

Pena cleaning on toprope

This looks to become a very good line.  The line starts by following an evident crack which starts off wide and quickly thins until it disappears 3/4 of the way up the wall.  The first crux is managing some purchase off the last few holds in the crack in order to reach the blunt arete.

Macau on the start

Working his way up the crack

Starting to reach for the arete

Macau establishing the highpoint, but falling at this point.

The second crux will be getting high enough using the arete and the remnants of the crack to launch to a small but positive crimp (said crimp can be seen chalked in the next pictures).  It will be a full body-length deadpoint.

Pena trying hard…

… and getting far…

but falling on his rear.  Thankfully Macau was spotting…….

Many new lines still being discovered in Sintra!  Seems like a group of strong (8b/V13+) Spanish climbers may be visiting next week (or is it this week) so we’ll see if they get to repeat or establish some classics (or get their asses kicked by Portuguese granite).

And after that nice session yesterday, today I returned to the mountain.  It was a calm solo trip with one pad and a drum and I had an excellent time reacquainting myself with the moves of The Myth boulder and also of a nearby project which is very much occupying my mind these days… such a perfect line!  More on that in posts to come.

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Gripless and Big Baldo

March 14, 2010

Sintra really has some gorgeous lines.  I think that’s the best way to start this post.

Quite a few of these gems are found in one of the oldest sectors (possibly the oldest if Capuchos was not developed first) called Peninha.  Peninha is located at the last surge of the mountain before it dips down to meet the ocean where it forms the westernmost point of continental Europe.  It is a magical place.  Sintra is already a magical place and Peninha is one of the magical places inside that magical place… you get what I’m getting at.

Peninha is home to the first 7c (V9) in the country, Kalashnikov, and its gorgeous grey granite forms other classics such as O Karma da Serra and Massa Expansiva.  “Gripless” is another one of those classics.  This climb hugs a beautiful and tall prow, a very evident whose first ascent was obtained by Ben Moon himself somewhere around 2004 or so when he and Jerry stopped by on a short visit.  Since then it has several attempts but only 3 ascents (that I’m aware of, correct me if I’m wrong, o Cuca ja o fez?): first by Ricardo (Macau) Alves, then Leopoldo Faria and Ricardo Belchior.

Pena on Gripless Photo by Macau.

Gonçalo on Gripless, Photo by Teresa Sousa

I found that this climb suited me very well, it was just slightly overhanging and involved compression moves; however, it took me like 15 tries just to get the right toe hook to stay.  Pulling on, swinging and falling…  Just when I was starting to get frustrated I managed to figure out the right body positioning and the rest of the problem flowed well in a couple of tries.

Above on the first move.

Below on the following sequence, excellent photography by Macau.

Photo below my Teresa Sousa

And the video by Miguel Tobias:

Definitely one of my proudest sends.  For me, the quality of this climb is very high: perfect rock, perfect features, perfect setting and I’m really happy to have it piece together so well.

I don’t want to shun away from the grades.  Those who sent this line before me feel that 7b+ (V8) is right; Gonçalo, who was trying the line with me and getting agonizingly close feels (as he is well known for) that it would be 7a+ (tops).  When everything pieced together it felt easy, flowing, the way I’d like all climbs to feel.  I hesitated to accept 7b+, then I lowered it to 7b resisting Goncalo’s suggestions of going even lower, and now, after talking with Ricardo Belchior, and considering that good climbers like Pena have given it solid burns, I’m staying with the consensus 7b+ (possibly on the low end).

After Gripless, and feeling very satiatied, I picked up Macau’s camera, equipped with his telescopic lens, and shot some images of him doing another slab FA called Big Baldo:

I have no idea what he was standing on… impressive send as always from M.

To finish off the excellent day we spotted Francisco Ataíde on the FA of a short crack climb.

Photo by Macau:

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I Prefer It In English

January 31, 2010

Teem que ver o bouldersintra.wordpress.com traduzido para Ingles!

Minha opiniao: mudava os nomes para Ingles.  Ja viram?  “Bife na Pedra” fica “Beefburger in the Rock”!!

Oh Pena, ve la: “Penalty in its favourite nose, finally to leave superficially:”  es tu!!

“Penalty you give to fly in direcção to crashs after failing for cms the reception of” Flying on a Nest of Cuckoos” – 7a+”

“The motivation was to rubro, what it took the chainings for the xicos and the xicas”

Sho Pereira passa a “Sho Pear tree”

“Long steps of the block, with Neres esticadinho that nor a harp:”

Loucura.