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Mortar Rock

April 5, 2012

It has been a while since I posted with any regularity on this blog.  Climbing indoors really hasn’t motivated me to film and post with that much enthusiasm.  The indoor climbing/training has been going great, and I’ve considered posting videos of training routines but what really motivates me is outdoors and I’ve been reluctant to switch this spot to a chalky indoor video blog.

A month and a half ago I went on a 3 day trip to Bishop which got me psyched, frustrated and motivated.  Psyched because I feel stronger, frustrated because I felt unaccustomed to climbing on real rock, and motivated for training outdoors.  The Bay Area isn’t known for its outdoor climbing spots but it does have one (or two) randomly placed boulders: Mortar Rock and Indian Rock.  Just Mortar Rock (one boulder) has a hundred (or 180 according to 8a) lines and variants.

Despite Mortar Rock being the opposite of a bouldering Mecca (1 boulder, sharp, painful, and located in the middle of a city) it has been the proving ground for many of the finest climbers of the previous generation; hard climbs have been established here by high-profile names such as: John Sherman, Greg Loh, Randy Puro and Chris Sharma as well as lesser known yet strong local climbers.

Here is a video of Full Fever:

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