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Ciao Sintra!

March 22, 2010

Yesterday we had an Italian treat with the visit of Roberto Armando and his wife from Italy!

Roberto is in charge of perhaps the most visited Italian bouldering site: InfoBoulder, a very nice and complete site with links to topos, training, news, videos and photos…  Check out their site.

The weather wasn’t fully cooperating in that the humidity was high and it was a bit warm.  With such weather we went to the Malveira sector Vivendas.  One of the sectors I’m least familiar with and whose best known climb is Visão Distorcida.

Visão Distorcida (“Distorted Vision”) started off as a 7b+ (V8) in 2002 and is now considered (by most) a soft 7b (V7).  The climb makes its way out of a horizontal roof, with only one small hold in the middle of the roof itself and a nice sloping pinch on the roof’s edge.  The crux is setting up on those two holds and lunging for the nice pocket on the lip.  Roof climbing is definitely not my style so I was very apprehensive about trying it but since it was The classic line (and we weren’t trying anything else there) I slowly worked the moves until I found foot placement that worked for me and I managed to do the climb.  Turns out it climbs really well!  A reminder for me to try new things.

Teresa Sousa and Gonçalo arrived just before I sent so here are two nice pictures taken by Teresa of me on the send:

Photos by Teresa Sousa

After that the group split up into two.  Pena and I went to brush, clean, and try a project of his while the others showed the Italian friends some more of the established climbs in a nearby sector.  Pena and I were shortly-thereafter joined by Macau and his tendinites and by Flash.

I tried the line a few times but my left hand was sore for some reason and I didn’t want to push it on my returning to bouldering, trying to avoid injuries.  So I took some pictures of Pena and Macau both giving it really good goes and making progress.

Pena cleaning on toprope

This looks to become a very good line.  The line starts by following an evident crack which starts off wide and quickly thins until it disappears 3/4 of the way up the wall.  The first crux is managing some purchase off the last few holds in the crack in order to reach the blunt arete.

Macau on the start

Working his way up the crack

Starting to reach for the arete

Macau establishing the highpoint, but falling at this point.

The second crux will be getting high enough using the arete and the remnants of the crack to launch to a small but positive crimp (said crimp can be seen chalked in the next pictures).  It will be a full body-length deadpoint.

Pena trying hard…

… and getting far…

but falling on his rear.  Thankfully Macau was spotting…….

Many new lines still being discovered in Sintra!  Seems like a group of strong (8b/V13+) Spanish climbers may be visiting next week (or is it this week) so we’ll see if they get to repeat or establish some classics (or get their asses kicked by Portuguese granite).

And after that nice session yesterday, today I returned to the mountain.  It was a calm solo trip with one pad and a drum and I had an excellent time reacquainting myself with the moves of The Myth boulder and also of a nearby project which is very much occupying my mind these days… such a perfect line!  More on that in posts to come.

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5 comments

  1. […] BrunoPlim no encadeamento do Visão: (foto by Teresa) . Depois seguimos até ao Katana Wall, um pequeno sector com linhas para todos os gostos, onde desfrutamos até ao cair da noite! Com excepção do Pena, que foi mais a cair até ao princípio da noite no seu projecto, o ”Tio Patinas”. Por fim, ao seu 100º pegue (contam a dobrar os baldos já com as duas mãos na beirada) lá encadeou a linha e espantou com um rugido todas as aves num raio de 5km… […]


  2. You can’t take that blond out of your head!! Oh yeah… I know what you mean!!!! 🙂


    • Ya, that is true, I can’t wait to get back on her… however, she is not the project I’m salivating about…


  3. You kind of a lord right???
    We´ll anyway i´m always salivating about all the lines that i did´nt do…
    Hopefuly i will do them all! XD


  4. So, what are you salivating for?



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