What is new?

August 9, 2009

Climbing outdoors has been very scarce unfortunately.  My hopes are all reserved for Portugal.  I and the family will be flying out there at the end of this month (!! so close) and staying there for a few months and I’ve been imagining that I’ll be doing a lot of outdoor climbing!  I do hope it comes true.

About a month ago I went sport climbing outdoors on the coast, at Stinson Beach, with friends Rances and Kevin.  A nice location especially if there is sun and low tide.  What we got was drizzle, fog, and high tide!  We still managed to have an awesome time.  We did a 5.10b, then a 5.11a (I think) and then quickly figured out the moves on a 5.12a.  We kept eye-ing a line that looked super rad but also looked super hard.  We could only spot some really small crimps, a huge jug and more small crimps… thing is the jug was miles away from the crimp holds and the feet looked very poor.  Kevin believed it was a 5.12c so we set it up on toprope and started working on it.

What seemed laughably impossible quickly revealed a really well-defined and pretty sequence of moves involving, of course, a dyno from two bad crimps to the jug.  Last try of the day, in now reasonably heavy drizzle (our stuff got all wet and muddy), and I managed to fall on the very last move.  Haven’t gone back to send but it has been on my thoughts quite frequently.  Oh, and the book says it is a 5.13a, that explains why we thought it was hard for a 12c!!

In the meanwhile I’ve been following a structured training program which I made for myself and it has been giving good results.  Strength, endurance, power are all well up and I’ve been feeling really good on the plastic (pity it’s on the plastic).  The other day I did about 20 problems including 5 V7s and only fell once, great feeling.

However, it seems like everytime I get into the groove with training or with a climbing routine it gets interrupted.  Portugal will be a welcome interruption but a part of me wishes I could have more time to explore my potential through this training.

p.s. what’s up with that kid Ondra uh?  insane!


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