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Yosemite Day 2

November 17, 2008

Another excellent thing about this trip has been using the down sleeping bag which I recently won at a comp in Berkeley.  It is the first time I have slept really warm in a sleeping bag, while it was freezing cold outside.  It is the first time I was naked in the sleeping bag while it was freezing outside!!!  So I slept great and by 6:45 I was at the Yosemite Lodge working on the thesis.

At around 9 we had a good breakfast, I met several climbers, a groups of them from Oakland/Berkeley (Rich, Owen, Mark) and decided to tag along with them for the day.  Kalekai had made a friend the previous day on our trek up Lower Yosemite Falls and they rendezvou’d at breakfast and decided to go for another exciting hike.  All set!!

We started off playing on Blue Swayde Shoes… a V5 Yosemite slab… hard for someone who hasn’t learnt to fully trust his feet.  No sends on it but we scrambled up some easier climbs around it to warm up.  And after a good hour of fooling around we went to play at King Cobra.

I was psyched to see this problem and Owen was psyched to send since he had gotten close.  It was tall.  You climb into a dihedral where you have to stem with your hands and stand on a small but positive foothold to reach far out to a good but slanted hold before hitting another slot way above the floor.  It felt hard but totally doable and the first time I stuck the first move I got myself all the way up to stemming and having to commit to the left-hand reach.  It felt too precarious though and I wasn’t ready so after a good minute breathing and wondering if I would die I dropped down.  My next two tries weren’t as positive since I botched the hand-foot beta which I had spontaneously made up (and subsequently forgotten) on the previous try.  We were about to leave, my thumb was feeling bruised and I gave it one last go.  Got back up to the stemming smearing high-footing move and started to rock onto the left foot, reaching for the hand-hold, and I closed my eyes and just reached reached reached, stuck the hold then pushed with my right heel to keep my body from barn-dooring, reached way up with the right hand and stuck the slot!!!!  So phyched, high off the ground, and managed to make the top out through the sketchied area yet felt solid.

Such a proud send!!!  I got video of Mark cruising it but no pics or video of me, which is unfortunate but fine since I need all the spotting available.

So no Midnight Lightning, still have tomorrow morning possibly… but another awesome climbing day!!!!

ended playing on Bachar Crack (which Owen and Mark did with good style) and then got our asses kicked on Emmet Arete.

Met up with Ursula and Kaleakai for a nice snack and well… now for some well-earned work!!

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2 comments

  1. you don’t remember that one time we were naked in hueco? yeah. me neither. so drunk.

    nice freaking job, mate.


  2. This is quite a up-to-date info. I’ll share it on Twitter.



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